Asian Flavors

Monday, October 12, 2015

Farewell to Fine Dining at La Belle Vie

By Phyllis Louise Harris

October 2015

Last week I celebrated my birthday by having dinner at one of the few fine dining restaurants in Minnesota. The next day I learned it was closing after more than 17 years in business.

La Belle Vie is the showcase of the culinary talents of Tim McKee who is one of a few Midwest chefs honored with a James Beard award. He started the business in Stillwater then moved it to 510 Groveland near Loring Park in Minneapolis. On October 24 it will close.

There are approximately 10,000 licensed eating and drinking establishments in Minnesota and now there will be one less. It is really a sad commentary on Midwestern tastes (or in the restaurant business known as “bland and boring”) when a restaurant of this caliber cannot draw enough clientele to survive.

I once asked Leeann Chin why she had adjusted her exceptional Chinese cooking skills to something more “Midwestern.” “I cook what the customer wants,” she replied, and built a chain of more than 60 restaurants in several states that still survives after 35 years. The food in her restaurants and the food she cooked for her family and students differed considerably. To me her private cooking was a good example of exceptional dining but she knew it would not sell in the volume she envisioned for long-term success. It was a lesson she learned in her first restaurant at Ridgedale when she ran out of food after the first hour the restaurant was open. The next day she set up a buffet to supplement the fancy menu with hand-calligraphy offering culinary gems. Again she sold out in an hour…from the buffet, not from the menu. She learned very fast what the customer wanted and went on to turn it into a successful business. But only a few of us knew what culinary gems she could create.

There is often a large gap between a chef’s vision and financial success and unless there is an audience who appreciates exceptional food in an upscale ambience the restaurant cannot survive. Such is the case with La Belle Vie. It was on a scale with the Ritz or Claridges in London, the Plaza or Carlyle in New York City, and the original Pump Room or Shanghai Terrace in Chicago. A quiet, refined atmosphere where diners dressed for dinner in something more attractive than cargo pants and tee shirts (men and women), and where the service is pleasant, efficient and knowledgeable. Where the menu offers a wide variety of choices prepared in sometimes surprising ways, but, always delicious.

Local food writers keep saying the Twin Cities has become a culinary haven with ever growing numbers of outstanding restaurants. I wish it were so. What we have is an ever growing array of sameness in different packages. And, with the demise of La Belle Vie we lost an oasis of culinary delights.

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Read more about Asian food in Minnesota and try more than 160 recipes in Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesota since 1875, now in bookstores and on amazon.com.

Buy online: Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesota since 1875

Watch the EMMY® award winning “Asian Flavors” television show based on the book on tpt MN. Check local TV listings for broadcast times or view the show streaming online at:http://www.mnvideovault.org/mvvPlayer/customPlaylist2.php?id=24552&select_index=0&popup=yes#0

Thursday, September 3, 2015

Pearl Balls . . . a Chinese favorite!

By Phyllis Louise Harris

September 2015

When people talk to me about Chinese food they usually mention their favorite dish. Egg rolls, dumplings, sweet and sour pork, sesame chicken, fried rice and chow mein are some of the choices that come up most often. The trouble is there are thousands of Chinese dishes and we only seem to focus on just a few.

Even the huge menu at Shuang Cheng does not begin to list them all. And dim sum restaurants still fall short on the choices that could be included. My own childhood world of chow mein and chop suey from the Nankin or John’s Place was so limited that is all I thought was available. And, then I went to the China Institute in New York City and had a culinary awakening.

In the 14 years I spent in cooking classes at the Institute with the talented Florence Lin I probably cooked more than 300 Chinese dishes and tasted another 200 dishes on my travels through China. I still have the recipes with class notes and sometimes I just page through them to remember the fun of discovering marvelous classics or remembering that pig snout was not my favorite flavor. Then there were pigs’ ears, chicken feet and, of course, intestines as well as chicken brains and every part of every creature imaginable. It always amuses me when people say they want to have “authentic” Chinese food as I wonder if they really mean all the parts that are used in traditional Chinese cooking.

But, one of my favorite dishes actually came from a Chinese restaurant in New York City that has since closed, the House of Tu. It became so popular so quickly that the owner was lured away to Texas where he was set up in his own restaurant there. The dish is pearl balls.

They looked appealing on the menu and even more interesting when they arrived. Here were delicious pork meatballs coated in sticky rice and steamed for two wonderful bites of flavor. Dipped in a Hunan pepper sauce, the mellow ball took on a spicy accent. When I asked Florence about making them in class she came up with a recipe the following week and they have been a favorite in my household ever since. They are easy to make and freeze and reheat well so I usually make two or three recipes at a time and have them on hand for easy meals or appetizers. Unfortunately, I have only seen them on one menu in the Twin Cities. But we did feature them in “Asian Flavors” along with a photo in a bamboo steamer basket. Here is the recipe:

Pearl Balls

From “Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesotans since 1875”

By Florence Lin, adapted by ACAI

1 cup glutinous (sweet) rice

1 pound lean pork, ground (or ground beef plus 1 tablespoon vegetable oil)

1 egg

1 tablespoon cornstarch combined with 1 tablespoon water and 1 tablespoon white wine

1 teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon Chinese light soy sauce

4 fresh water chestnuts, peeled and minced (or canned water chestnuts)

1 tablespoon minced scallion, white part only

vegetable oil

Hunan Pepper Sauce or other Chinese hot sauce

1. Rinse the rice several times and cover with cold water to soak for at least 1 hour. Drain well and spread rice on a clean cloth or paper towels to dry for at least 1 hour.

2. In a large bowl, combine the pork, egg, and cornstarch mixture, mixing well. Add the salt, sugar and soy sauce and stir in one direction with a chopstick until the meat holds together. The texture will change from ground pieces to little strings of meat all pointed in one direction. Add water chestnuts and scallions and continue to stir. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

3. Set up a wok with racks for steaming. Fill the wok about 1/3 full of water and bring to a boil.

4. Lightly oil the inside base of each rack. Moisten your hands with water and scoop up about 1½ tablespoons of the pork mixture, rolling it into a ball about 1 inch in diameter. Roll each pork ball in the dried rice to completely cover the meat. Set the balls on the steamer rack about ½ inch apart. When the rack is filled place it over the boiling water, cover and steam over medium high heat for 20 minutes. (If you are using bamboo steamer racks, steam two racks at a time.) Remove the balls to a platter or individual plates. Repeat with the remaining meat and rice. Serve hot with pepper sauce.

Note: Pearl balls freeze well and may be reheated. Place the cooked and cooled balls on an oiled cookie sheet and freeze until firm. Store the frozen pearl balls in freezer bags up to 6 weeks. Defrost at room temperature and steam to reheat approximately 8 minutes until heated through.

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Thursday, August 6, 2015

“Cheap meals” with Asian flavors

By Phyllis Louise Harris

August 2015

The current issue of Mpls/StPaul magazine lists 95 “great cheap meals” available in the Twin Cities including a $30 lobster dinner at Jax. While $30 is cheap for lobster it is not an inexpensive meal. And, in their listing of chicken wing sources, one of the best in town was missed – Christos Greek Restaurants whose oregano chicken wings at $7.45 are absolutely delicious and affordable! The magazine also missed Christos special "3 courses for $20" menu with some very interesting choices. But, most surprising, the list did not include a single item from a Chinese restaurant.

If ever there was a cuisine that offered a variety of flavors and nutrition at reasonable cost it is Chinese cooking. Among the many offerings in the Twin Cities and throughout the state there are a multitude of choices available to enjoy at very reasonable prices. Portions are usually generous and often include rice and tea. Here are just a few you may have missed:

Shuang Cheng Restaurant in Dinkytown has 18 lunch specials every day for under $7.39 (with most at around $6.25) including the entrée, chicken fried rice or steamed rice, eggroll or wonton and tea. Choices include shrimp, fish filet, sesame chicken, Mongolian beef and more. Their Cantonese style rice plates are also a bargain for roast duck, seafood with broccoli or 18 other plates all under $7.79. In addition, owner Daniel Lam offers one of the most extensive Chinese menus in the area with over 130 items including a wide variety of seafood including lobster and walleyed pike. See the full menu at www.shuangchengrestaurant.com.

David Fong’s, Bloomington’s first Chinese restaurant, opened 53 years ago is still run by the Fong family and has always featured American as well as Chinese food. Two of the most popular entrees are the U.S. Tenderloin Steak dinner for $10.25 and the Breaded Pork Tenderloin at $9.25. Their Chinese menu includes dishes from David Fong’s father and grandfather that have become such popular favorites that when customers move away from the area they call long distance for the recipes. See it all at www.davidfongs.com.

Chindian, that delightful restaurant on East Hennepin run by Nina Wong and Thomas Gnanapragasm combines several Asian cuisines for a variety of flavors at reasonable prices. She is from China, he is from Malaysia and the menu offers traditional and blended dishes from both traditions. Nina is a noodle fan and offers some interesting dishes including Chow Mai Fun, a gluten-free rice noodle dish flavored with curry spices and served in a variety of styles at $11. Or try Thomas’s signature dish from Malaysia, Nasi Lemak featuring coconut rice, chicken, egg, peanuts and anchovies for $10. And, here is another take on chicken wings from Nina for $7. For more information go to www.chindiancafe.com.

Harry Singh (look for him at the State Fair) Original Caribbean Restaurant on Eat Street in Minneapolis also has tasty chicken wings plus a variety of India- and Chinese- influenced dishes. A nice change from the usual sandwiches is the hot-off-the-grill roti, the Indian flat bread served with jerk chicken, curry chicken, curry beef, curry shrimp or browned chicken for $9.95. Splash on some of Harry’s special hot sauce and you have a taste of the islands right here in Minnesota. Harry also offers chicken wings and a variety of jerk dishes. Go to www.harrysinghs.com for more choices and information about this one-of-a-kind place to dine.

These are just a few suggestions. So instead of the usual “cheap” choices, why not try some of the classic inexpensive Asian dishes served every day throughout our state by talented, creative chefs who love what they do and look forward to brining you something special to enjoy.

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Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Turning a passion for tea into an award-winning business - TeaSource

By Phyllis Louise Harris

July 2015

It all started in a spare bedroom 20 years ago. Bill Waddington was a tea fan. So much so, that when he travelled across the country in his job for a supermarket chain he would seek out tea vendors, tea rooms, tea importers – anyone who could broaden his understanding and enjoyment of the world’s most popular beverage (next to water). But, that wasn’t enough for Bill.

Soon he was writing to owners of tea plantations around the world – Ceylon, China, Japan, Bhutan, Nepal, India – asking about their particular tea. Not only did he get responses, but he also started receiving samples. So many that he emptied a bedroom in his home and began assembling his collection of tea. Since there are 3,000 kinds of tea in the world he needed lots of space.

With his background in the grocery business the next step was a natural. Bill created a catalog and began selling tea by mail. Now he was taking trips abroad to meet plantation owners and to see tea processing first hand. That still was not enough so he quit his fulltime job and in 1997 opened the first TeaSource in St. Paul’s Highland neighborhood. As the business grew so did the varieties of tea he handled until today he has three TeaSource stores in the Twin Cities, a separate tea warehouse, a complete catalog and an informative website all promoting the 250 varieties of tea he now offers. And, he still travels around the world seeking out new sources and interesting flavors.

In May, TeaSource was named “Best Tea Business” at the World Tea Expo in Long Beach, California, the world’s largest international specialty tea show. More than 5,000 thousand attendees along with the show’s exhibitors determined the winner. Not bad for a company that started in a spare bedroom!

If you haven’t been to TeaSource you are missing a whole world of flavors and aromas. I am currently limited to black tea and only drink caffeine-free so of course Bill has something for me as well. It is an English breakfast tea and is delicious yet still soothing as tea should be…just as it was for the first tea drinker in China five thousand years ago.

To learn more about the amazing world of tea visit any TeaSource or the website www.teasource.com and do plan to attend one of Bill’s many classes in the art of tea. Also pick up his free pamphlets filled with all of the tea information you will ever need. (After being immersed in the proper ways of tea you will never look at it the same way again. No more tea bags for me!) You will find TeaSource stores in St. Paul, St. Anthony and Eden Prairie where Bill promises to offer special events this fall celebrating his “Best Tea Business” award.

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Read more about Asian food in Minnesota and try more than 160 recipes in Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesota since 1875, now in bookstores and on amazon.com.

Buy online: Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesota since 1875

Watch the EMMY® award winning “Asian Flavors” television show based on the book on tpt MN. Check local TV listings for broadcast times or view the show streaming online at: http://www.mnvideovault.org/mvvPlayer/customPlaylist2.php?id=24552&select_index=0&popup=yes#0

Monday, June 1, 2015

Get the most out of summer with Minnesota grown food and wine!

By Phyllis Louise Harris

June 2015

Finally! Snow and ice are fading memories and glorious summer is well underway. With it Farmers Markets are opening all over the state with the freshest of farm grown produce. Strawberries, asparagus, radishes, spinach, green beans and peas are the earliest choices that line the stalls of hundreds of farm to table markets throughout the region. And, they are so much fun to shop! Talk with the growers about storing and cooking their amazing food and you will learn something new each time you shop. Check on Minnesota grown meat and fish. Chat with artisans who also bring their wares to the market and sample some of the food truck and food stand specialties. (Miniature doughnuts are still a favorite!) It is like a mini-state fair every week of the summer.

Find them all in the 2015-16 Minnesota Grown Directory packed with 1027 places for home grown, home cured, home bred, home distilled everything! From asparagus to wine you will find a source close to home.

Also look for specialty sources such as the Hmong American Partnership’s Arcade featured at many church markets and the Saint Paul Farmers Market. It is a unique opportunity to meet new neighbors and enjoy their homegrown produce.

And, did you know Minnesota is home to more than 55 wineries and vineyards? Find a designated driver and plan a day trip to just a few. Start in Stillwater at the Saint Croix Vineyards then go to nearby Northern Vineyards Winery, move on to Hastings to the state’s first winery, Alexis Bailly Vineyard. Then top it off with a swing through Cannon Falls for the Cannon River Winery including a side trip to the vineyard where you can have a picnic on a hill overlooking the valley filled with vines. Great tastings, beautiful scenery and a tour that matches Napa Valley any day. And, did you know, you can help stomp the grapes in September? (Shades of “I Love Lucy.”) Check the directory for details.

For your free directory or to find homegrown resources nearest to you go to www.minnesotagornw.com and start planning to really enjoy all the wonders of summer!

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Read more about Asian food in Minnesota and try more than 160 recipes in Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesota since 1875, now in bookstores and on amazon.com.

Buy online: Asian Flavors: Changing the Tastes of Minnesota since 1875

Watch the EMMY® award winning “Asian Flavors” television show based on the book on tpt MN. Check local TV listings for broadcast times or view the show streaming online at: http://www.mnvideovault.org/mvvPlayer/customPlaylist2.php?id=24552&select_index=0&popup=yes#0